Paso Robles Wine From Two Sides of the Same Coin

Attended not just a class but a Masterclass no less about Paso Robles wine. It’s a region I visited a couple years ago and had a great time soaking in its low-key charms and surprising wines. This learning session was helmed by Master Sommelier Alexander LaPratt with able assists from Jason Hass (master of Google maps demos zooming from outer space to the Templeton Gap) of Tablas Creek Vineyard, Brian Terrizzi of Giornata, and Amanda Wittstrom-Higgins from Ancient Peaks Winery.

Lovely vineyard view / Photo Courtesy Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance

I’m most familiar with Tablas Creek as it is one of the wineries I’ve visited (GO!) and my mom happens to be an enthusiastic member of their wine club (JOIN!).

But Giornata and Ancient Peaks Winery were new to me. I tried a duo of Giornata’s wines first. It’s a really interesting winery that focuses on Italian grape varieties. Which perhaps seems a little nuts, or bold at a minimum, but when you taste the wines you’ll see why.

Gioranta Fiano 2017 ($30)

This white wine had a delightful almond nuttiness and a little bit of creamy texture. It totally reminded me of Fiano from Italy’s Campania region. This is a big compliment. (80% Fiano, 20% Trebbiano, and 7% Falanghina BTW.)

Paso Robles Wine From Two Sides of the Same CoinGioranta Nebbiolo 2015 ($45)

Ok, if the Fiano reminded me of something from Campania, that’s kind of a big deal. But surely a Paso Robles Nebbiolo will not transport me to Piedmont. HA! As if. Well….

About this wine, LaPratt remarked something along the lines of if you poured it blind and then told a wine wonk it was a Paso Robles wine, they’d want to see the bottle. I’ll take that further and say, they’d want to see an UNOPENED bottle to make sure there were no shenanigans. Very Piedmont-y stuff!

The wine was a bit translucent and when you have a bit of a see-through red, the natural instinct is thinking it’s going to be a light-0n-its-feet type of wine.

BUT NO! Though a very pretty wine, it had some powerful tannins. Which leads me to believe it needs to chill for a few years in your dang cellar. Or serve with a burger/steak. Or perhaps a burger appetizer and a steak entree. (WHAT?)

Paso Robles Wine from the Obscure to the Familiar

Ok, you know I like lesser-known grapes and people growing atypical stuff in their neck of the woods. But, damnit, I’m going to talk about Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. I was really impressed with two wines from Ancient Peaks Winery, which would be smokin’ picks for a by-the-glass selection.

Ancient Peaks Winery Merlot 2016 ($20)

Ancient Peaks Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($22)

Paso Robles Wine From Two Sides of the Same Coin

Facebook / Ancient Peaks

Regarding the Merlot, if anyone still thinks this grape is somehow demure or usually “softer” than Cab the Ancient Peaks Winery bottling makes mincemeat of those sentiments. The wine had these cool camphor-y notes I liked. Serve it to any Cabernet fanatic and they’d be a convert. The APW Cab screams “Cali Cab” yet also tastes like Cabernet, with some savory notes making it very interesting. Your Cab nuts would go wild for the muscle of this wine.

So why do I say Giornata and Ancient Peaks Winery are two sides of the same coin? Based on the duo of wines I’ve discussed from each, they seem world’s apart. Of course the wineries share a home in Paso (duh). But furthermore, Ancient Peaks is growing Nebbiolo and Sangiovese for Giornata. Cool, huh? BTW, Ancient Peaks is located in the Santa Margarita Ranch sub-AVA of Paso Robles and APW’s Margarita Vinyeard is the only one in the AVA.

MORAL OF THE STORY:

Even if wineries are making different wines from different grapes in different styles, that doesn’t mean they don’t get along or belong together. THE END.

The post Paso Robles Wine From Two Sides of the Same Coin appeared first on Jameson Fink.

Low Alcohol? B*tch, Please! (Perspectives On Paso Robles For Palate Press)

Last week, Palate Press published my take on the current state of the Paso Robles wine scene (based on a recent media tour of the region), titled Paso Robles: Sorry, not sorry.

That title seemed more publication-appropriate than “Bitch, please!” or “I heard what you said, I just don’t give a f*ck.”

You see, a funny thing happened on the way to producing the fine wines with lower alcohol levels that are supposed to represent the changing tastes and preferences of the American consumer: Paso Robles largely stopped giving a sh*t.

Low Alcohol? B*tch, Please! (Perspectives On Paso Robles For Palate Press)

image: Palate Press

By largely ignoring said trend and focusing on what the region naturally provides, Paso Robles’ finest are arguably making some of their best wines yet, to the benefit of those who favor big, bold, but ultimately well-balanced vino.

Check out the full story for the details; below are the wines highlighted in the piece (in case you’re the impatient type):

Cheers!

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Paso Robles, Sonoma, Napa: What’s the right amount of growth?

 

The thing about America is that the easy issues have been solved. What’s left are the hard ones, and among those—hardly the most pressing, but troubling if you live in wine country—is how much development to allow.

Basically, the two sides are these: on the one hand are tourists who bring in the dollars that pay for police, firemen, road repair, teachers and the like. They want to visit wine country and have a lot of fun stuff to do, and wineries are eager to provide them with the opportunity.

On the other hand are people who actually live in wine country and find the increasingly crowded roads a real hassle. Whether you’re a fourth generation Napan, Sonoman or Paso Roblan, or someone who moved there six months ago for a quieter, simpler way of life, the influx of thousands of extra tourists has got to be annoying.

This is not a new issue in wine country, but it is increasing to epic proportions. As Angela Hart, at the Santa Rosa Press-Democrat, and Esther Mobley, at the San Francisco Chronicle, point out, things are reaching the boiling point.

Both Hart’s article, in Saturday’s Press-Democrat, and Mobley’s, in yesterday’s Chronicle, are balanced and objective looks at the two sides. Mobley provides continuing coverage of the brouhaha over Justin Winery’s removal of oak trees, which really freaked out lots of locals. Hart looks at Sonoma County’s approval of 300 new wineries in the last sixteen years, which opponents say sparks “unruly crowds, loud noise and traffic on narrow, winding roads [that] is detracting from the peace and quiet of their neighborhoods.” Neither of these journalists takes a side; neither do I. These are political decisions and a reporter should not engage in politics.

I’ve followed these debates for a long time. There’s never an easy answer. You can’t kill the goose that lays the golden egg, which in this case is the dollars the flow into formerly rural communities that badly need the money. But you can’t take a farming community and turn it, willy nilly, into Fisherman’s Wharf. What is needed is a reasonable amount of growth. You can’t have no growth; that train has left the station long ago. Nor can you have unlimited growth: nobody wants to see Motel 6’s and Taco Bells sprawling along the Silverado Trail.

The Justin case is not quite the same as the Sonoma case. Justin did something that even they admit was a horrible mistake, and they’re trying their hardest to apologize and make amends. Still, Mobley got it right in her analysis that this tempest has brought Paso Robles, formerly a sleepy little wine community, its “first real dose of Wine Country growing pains.” Wine country is nothing if not charming, but as we all have experienced, there’s nothing charming about a traffic jam that extends from Yountville to Calistoga—20 miles—that takes 45 minutes to negotiate.

The answer? Like I said, the easy issues have already been solved. What we’re left with in America—problems of policing, of homelessness, of the environment and climate change and healthcare—are seemingly intractable. They can only be addressed when both sides are reasonable and open to compromise—and “compromise” has turned into a dirty word, in all too many cases. Wine country should be an exception. It should be a place where reasonable people can get together and reach reasonable accommodations that may not satisfy everyone, but that give enough to all parties to keep the peace, allowing for managed, but not unlimited, growth.

Wine Reviews: California Reds

The air in the mid-Atlantic is finally baring its cold winter teeth – which I love. It’s time to set the slow-cooker, uncork some rich California reds and raise a glass to darkness at 5:00 PM.

I review a lot of California Pinot Noirs, Cabernets and Syrahs, but we also receive a lot of samples that don’t easily fall into one category or another. Hence, this tasting, which is full of Merlot, Bordeaux-style blends and inky Petite Sirahs.

These wines were received as trade samples an tasted single-blind.

Review: 2012 Matchbook The Arsonist - California
SRP: $22
Deep ruby color. Sweet blueberry and raspberry jam aromas, along with roses, caramel. Medium-full-bodied with smooth tannins and medium acid, a jammy but slick feel on the palate, and I get lots of blueberry and black cherry fruit, cooked down a bit with coffee, brown sugar, vanilla bean and hints of black pepper glaze. A bit boisterous but it pulls off some fun stuff and provides a moderate amount of complexity. Chewy, rich, warm, with a dusty but sweet finish. Fun stuff now but it could benefit from some near-term aging. 52% Petite Verdot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Merlot, aged 28 months in French, American and European oak. (87 points IJB)

Review: 2012 Clayhouse Vineyard Petite Sirah Show Pony Red Cedar Vineyard - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $40
Deep blackberry-purple color. Aromas of tangy blackberries mixed with blueberry compote and jam, notes of charcoal, dark chocolate, violets and clove. Dense at first, with low acid and grippy tannins. The blackberry and blueberry fruit is rich and extracted, yet maintains a tart aspect. Violets, graphite, clove, toasted coconuts, dark chocolate. Full and forward (14.5% alcohol), but shows an impressive depth and non-fruit complexity like graphite, pepper and rich earth. Drink now if you want a big boy, but I’d like to cellar this for two years or so. All Petite Sirah aged 20 months in French oak. (88 points IJB)

Review: 2013 Chronic Cellars Petite Sirah Suite Petite - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP $15
Vibrant purple color. Dense on the nose with deep blackberries and plums, mocha, cedar, smoke and black olive. Rich texture on the palate, full-bodied with gritty tannins. Compact, needs time to open up but has some dense black cherries and roasted figs. Notes of earth, charcoal, black olive and black pepper glaze as well. Rich, chewy, perhaps needs two years or so, but this is an impressive effort for $15. Includes 13% Syrah. (87 points IJB)

Review: 2013 Chronic Cellars Purple Paradise - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $15
Juicy ruby color. Nose of sweet red and black cherries and plums, coffee, clove and vanilla. Full-bodied but soft tannins, moderate-low acid. Juicy raspberries, blueberries, gushing fruit loaded with coffee, dark chocolate, sweet oak and vanilla bean. Rich, chewy, a wine to pop now and drink with a crowd. 70% Zinfandel, 14% Syrah, 11% Petite Sirah, 5% Grenache. (86 points IJB)

Review: 2012 Matchbook Tinto Rey - California, Central Valley, Dunnigan Hills
SRP: $17
Mediun ruby colored. Nose of wild raspberries and juicy red cherries, some cola, mint and sweet baking spices as well. Medium-bodied, moderate acid helps freshen things up despite the chewy black cherry and raspberry jam elements. The wine is packed with notes of cola, dark chocolate, cedar and clove, but some interesting pepper and spice notes as well. Warm, smooth finish. Delicious stuff, not the most complicated wine, but it’s a fun ride. 50% Tempranillo, 17% Syrah, 11% Petit Verdot, 8% Graciano and 4% Tannat. (87 points IJB)

Review: 2010 Cenyth Proprietary Red Wine - California, Sonoma County
SRP: $60
Dark ruby colored. A rich but bright aromatic blend of black and red currants and tart plums, sweet cedar, red roses, dusty soil, tobacco and a dash of eucalyptus. Medium bodied but not overpowering, the tannins provide plenty of solid structure but some fresh acid keeps the wine bright. The juicy plums and currant fruit show depth and nuance, and the fruit is matched with tobacco leaf, eucalyptus, toasted oak and sweet clove. Long finish with all sorts of nuanced flavors and, despite the bold presence, it maintains a lingering sense of elegance and freshness. I’d love to revisit this in three or four years, but enjoyable now, although a good decant would do it good. 54% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 14 months in 30% new French oak, 13.5% alcohol. (91 points IJB)

Review: 2013 Biltmore Estate Merlot Vanderbilt Reserve - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $27
Medium purple color. Sweet aromas of black cherries, raspberries, red licorice and vanilla. A vibrant and juicy approach on the palate with fleshy tannins and moderate-low acid. Chewy black cherries and, the fruit is topped with notes of dark chocolate and campfire smoke. Significant wood chips and vanilla, especially on the finish, some tobacco and bell pepper notes. Perhaps some near-term aging could do good things, but it seems playful right out of the bottle. (85 points IJB)

Review: 2013 Shafer Merlot - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $55
Light purple color. Deep, rich aromatics, needing air and swirling to coax them out, but lots of complexity in here: black cherries, blackberries, tart plums, along with a medley of earthy-savory aspects (mushroom, leather, coffee, eucalyptus), sweet vanilla and toast. Full-bodied with study tannins and medium-low acid, but the wine maintains a velvety richness. The blackberry, plum skin and blueberry fruit is full, ripe but sexy, and tossed together with plenty of tobacco, mocha, cedar, loamy soil and graphite notes. Complex, long, deserving of cellar time to unravel the complexities and let the wine smooth out, but this is a beauty. A burly wine at 15.3% alcohol, but so delicious. Includes 84% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 20 months in 75% new French oak. (91 points IJB)

Review: 2012 Bootleg Red - California, Napa Valley
SRP: $39
Vibrant purple color. Dark and saucy on the nose (blackberry jam, roasted figs, blueberry syrup), some sweet vanilla and roasted coffee mix with an underlying sense of fallen leaves and savory (perhaps mushroom?) notes. Full-bodied with some sandy tannins and moderate acid. Juicy blackberry, blueberry and black cherry fruit, a crunchy aspect to the fruit helps it stay fresh and vibrant. Rich earth, chestnut, violet and coffee woven in well, some birch beer and cedar on the end. Seems accessible but it could definitely improve with some time in the cellar. 37% Merlot, 28% Petite Sirah, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah and 4% Zinfandel. Aged 23 months in French and Amercan oak. (88 points IJB)

Review: 2012 Murrieta’s Well The Spur - California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley
SRP: $25
Vibrant ruby color. Pretty but bold aromatic display, wild raspberries, black cherries mix with deeper currant fruit, dried violets, eucalyptus and cedar shavings. Medium-bodied, fine tannins of medium strength, medium-low acid. The blackberry and black currant fruit is intertwined with juicy and tangy wild raspberries. I like the mix of coffee, eucalyptus, cedar and wet earth. Fun, not too complicated, but definitely delicious. Could use a bit more tang for my palate, but a solid wine for early consumption. 33% Petite Sirah, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Petite Verdot, 4% Malbec and 3% Merlot. (87 points IJB)

Review: 2013 Quivira Zinfandel Black Boar - California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley
SRP: $45
Deep ruby colored. Smoky and baked on the nose with baked cherry pie, blackberry jam and roasted figs, some vanilla, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco. Full-bodied, velvety tannins, low acid. Blackberry jam, roasted fig paste, cherry pie flavors, lots of cedar, vanilla, mocha and scorched earth but some more tobacco and black pepper. Big and bold, can’t deny the deliciousness but not much subtlety. Aged 17 months in 30% new French oak, this includes 12% Petite Sirah and 5% Carignan. (87 points IJB)

Review: 2012 Immersion Wines Red Blend - California, Napa Valley
SRP $17
Vibrant purple. Aromas of tart red berries, blackberries, notes of clove, tobacco, spearmint, dark chocolate shavings. Full bodied, some tartness and bite to the wine, along with blackberry, dark currant, blueberry. Smoky, charcoal and Maintains a tart edge with a finish of smoke and anise. Not too complex, but fun. (85 points IJB)

<85 points
Review: 2012 Clayhouse Vineyard Adobe Red - California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
SRP: $14
Juicy purple colored. Nose of sweet currant jam, raspberry pie, some cinnamon, clove and creamy oak. Light tannins, medium acid. Sweet black cherries, raspberry jam and pomegranate juice flavors, along with black cherry fountain soda, roasted chestnut and coffee. Juicy and a bit candied but tasty. Drink now. Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo and Malbec, 12 months in French and American oak.

Review: 2013 Nevada County Wine Guild Our Daily Red - California
SRP: $10
Medium ruby color. Sweet red apple peel, strawberry jam, a weird mix of coffee grounds, bitter green herbal notes and red licorice candy. Medium bodied, soft tannins, some moderate acid. The red berry fruit is a bit bitter and sour, mixed in with notes of coffee, oak, green pepper and earth. Unbalanced, some red berry juice flavors but, overall, just not good. Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ruby Cabernet, Carignan.

Review: 2013 Cornerstone Cellars Stepping Stone Red Rocks! - California, North Coast
SRP: $15
Light ruby color. Smells like baked plums, raspberry cheesecake topping, toffee, but some roses and pepper come in and keep it from being totally sweet fruit compote. Tangy acid (surprising, in a good way), light, the wine has a fresh feel despite the candied elements, of which there are many (cherry chews, purple taffy, raisin cookie), mixed in with some slight notes of roses and chestnut. It’s fun, and I could see this getting a lot of critter label converts (and it is a step above for sure), but still tastes too concocted to me. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Pinot Noir.